Tuesday, May 28, 2013

Week two Jekyll Island, GA to Little River, SC


Week 2 Jekyll Island to Little River  (May 11 to 16, 2013)

Despite all the cautions and local knowledge about traveling along Jekyll Creek, we experienced our first grounding not 15 minutes after our departure from Jekyll Island Marina.  We had just radioed a sailboat following us to remark about sufficient water near a notorious marker when we touched softly on the bottom.  We were on a rising tide and backing off occurred easily allowing us to proceed out the Creek into St Simons Sound, our first of many Sounds in Georgia.  We were both a little surprised at the expanse of water in these Sounds.

Surprise, shrimp at The Jekyll Wharf Rah Bar

Our second (third and fourth) grounding occurred at the entrance to Walburg Creek just south of St Catherine’s Sound.  We arrived at low tide, and were greeted by a well-charted shoal and an unfavorable wind.  As we tried to find the deepest water into the creek, we touched a few times but eventually plowed into much deeper water.  Our nautical expertise did not go unnoticed as a local fisherman looked on as he fished near our entrance.  About two miles up Walburg Creek we successfully anchored for the night among four boats that had been traveling with us most of the day.  The sailboat I had talked to early that morning “Tank” also arrived and anchored near us.  We invited Jim to Some R Lovin for a beer and to talk about life on the water.  He has been living on his Morgan ’41 for years and shared many experiences helping us prepare for our transit through Georgia.  He left before the Georgia flies carried him away and sent us down below.  During this anchoring, Anchor Alert HD, an app on our iPad, allowed us to sleep better at night on the hook.

HUGE Georgia fly


Day three we crossed St Catherine’s Sound approaching the Atlantic Ocean and experienced a bumpy ride for the first three hours of our journey.  It was Heather’s birthday so we traveled with her in spirit as one of our crew.  We have been amazed that water so wide can experience such shallow areas. Minding makers in big water is just as important as it is in much smaller canals and rivers.  After leaving the Sound we continued our trek stopping for the night at Hilton Head Harbor Marina.  As this day was Mother’s Day, Dan tried to do something special for Sandy.  The choices nearby were limited but we found the Harbor restaurant, Sunset Grill was exceptional.  We later learned one of our friends, Alice and Mike, from Vero Beach lived just across the street from the marina.  Unfortunately, they were not at home so we missed catching up with them.  Maybe next time…

Sunset at Sunset Grill
Some R Lovin' at the fuel dock

Our next day became one of the most memorable to date.  We read about B&B Seafood on the Mosquito Creek in the Waterway Guide as a recommended stop just off the ICW.  That day we were limited in distance we could travel because of tides and shallow water so we decided to take the excursion.  Advertised as a flat-rate $25 dockage and fresh shrimp at the office, this stop at Bennett Point was a highlight of low country South Carolina.  We docked behind a 68’ shrimp boat and of the 50 families living there, probably ¼ of the population stopped by to welcome us.  Tank also happened along and joined us aboard Some R Lovin’ for a shrimp boil.  Later that night Billie B, the shrimp boat returned to the dock with the day’s catch.  Sandy talked Captain Rich into selling us more shrimp from his catch that later turned into shrimp scampi with linguini and white wine sauce.  Wish we could get the bumper sticker we saw there,“friends don’t let friends eat foreign shrimp.”  We have become attached to fresh shrimp in the most delicious way.

B&B Seafood at Bennet Point, SC
Tank's Captain, Jim and Dan eating more shrimp
Captain Rich measuring out our shrimp


Our next day was our longest to date, Mosquito Creek to Dewees Creek north of Charleston near Isle of Palms.  To get to this anchorage we traversed additional skinny water, hazardous shoaling areas and through Charleston Bay.  After more than 8 hours on the water we were ready for a peaceful night.  Unfortunately, Dewees anchorage, though advertised as excellent, we had to reset the anchor three times and endured a restless night despite our trusty anchor alarm.  That was the scampi night so at least our tummies were happy.

Sunset in Dewees Creek


After leaving Dewees Creek we headed to Georgetown Harborwalk Marina.  What an unexpected pleasure stop, but not without another day of fighting tides, currents and shoaling water.  We docked around 3:00 PM and caught the last city tram tour of the day.  Lloyd, our personal guide as we were the only ones on the tour, enlightened us about revolutionary and civil war history of the town.  Period homes have been restored to their original state in the historic area of downtown.  Michele Obama’s Great-great Grandfather was freed from slavery here and educated in the African Methodist Episcopal Church where so many other slaves learned to read and write before leaving Georgia to work in the north.  We learned of and bought Carolina Gold Rice, one of the cash crops of Georgetown.  And if you ever get to Georgetown, don’t pass up an opportunity to dine outside at Krazy Fish with its funky, local color and conversation.



Our final day this week we nearly completed our journey through South Carolina stopping at Little River for three delightful days with our friends from high school, JoAnne and Kevin.  Our route there took us through the Waccamaw River, one of the most scenic passages along the South Carolina ICW.  Cyprus trees lined the river and we saw dozens of turtles lazing along the banks.  One must take the good with the bad and the second half of the day we trudged along the narrow and unforgiving rocky banks through the Myrtle Beaches arriving at Cricket Cove Marina in Little River.  Here we re-provisioned and bought things we didn’t know we would need like a fly swatter and new aft stateroom pillows.  Thanks to Jo and Kev for driving us around and hosting us in their home away from home.

The beautiful Waccamaw River
Friends forever at Molly Darcy's Irish Pub, Myrtle Beach, SC
 
Red, White and Blue pillows for our bed







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