Tangier Island (in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay) June 11-13, 2013

Historical Marker

Our visit to Tangier while not a full week deserves its own post.  Captain John Smith stopped here during his 1608 exploration of the Chesapeake and about 80 years later John Crockett settled the island. The Crockett name still exists on the island along with only 53 other surnames, which occur among the approximately 700+ residents.  Five seniors graduated from the only school on the island in a graduation celebration while we were there (the two girls are going to college while the three boys are taking up their father’s trade – fishing or crabbing more specifically).

When entering the channel, that currently divides the one by three mile island, you will see small white crab shanties where crabs are managed until they molt becoming “soft shelled crabs” at which time they are packaged and taken to the “main land” for distribution far and wide.

Crab shanties under a stormy sky

Sandy learning more about soft-shell crabs

The island boasts several gift shops, a few restaurants (Lorraine’s and Matilda Crockett’s Chesapeake House), a couple ice cream parlors and the charm only a community sheltered from much of the “outside” world could offer.  The Tangier History Museum offers a glimpse into the early days of the island, resident culture and a waterman’s way of life.  We walked the streets and dodged golf carts and motor scooters (the preferred mode of transportation for locals) while enjoying the sights food and endless discussions from Tangiermen who still speak in a form of language thought to be directly associated to the original Elizabethan settlers.

Sandy's gift shop

quaint narrow streets and golf carts ready for an Island tour

While we intended only a single overnight, sufficient to take in most of what Tangier has to offer, once again Mother Nature had a different idea.  We stayed two additional days to wait out one of the most severe thunderstorms and the unsettled Bay that followed we had ever seen.  In fact, a sailboat docked next to us clocked winds in excess of 50 mph at the height of the storm.  Mr. Parks, owner of the marina and long-time crabber told us later that one of his friends clocked a gust nearly 70mph. 

Mother Nature about to unleash her wrath

Needless to say, as the stormed howled, we slept uncomfortably, surging into the dock and awaking a couple times through the night to snug lines and reposition fenders.  Fortunately, we were able to chock the experience up to a lesson of watching the weather without damage to the boat or injury to either of us.

watching the storm roll over our neighbor sailboat

After a pleasant three-day visit we were on our way to Solomon’s Island for a reunion with Marsha and Allen.

Sandy and Mr. Milton Parks (82 yrs young with 60 years as a crabber and owner of the  Parks Marina)

Week 5 -- Deltaville, VA June 5 to 12, 2013

Not the destination vacation spot we expected but for advice on cruising and one of the best boatyards on the lower Chesapeake we couldn’t have found a better place to spend time.

For any cruiser the name Dozier is a familiar one.  Jack Dozier and his wife not only run the Regatta Marina in Deltaville but also are the owners and publishers of the Dozier Waterway Guides, which we use extensively.  

The Dozier's

Sandy and Dan at Dozier's

We arrived on Saturday after an uneventful run from Norfolk. We had called earlier in the morning to ask Jack for assistance with helping us diagnose and repair, if necessary, the leaking dripless shaft seal.  Unfortunately, the first we could have anyone look at the seal was Monday so we decided to make the best of the weekend at Dozier’s.  Sunday came with a hosted breakfast, the proceeds of which go to the Maritime Museum reconstruction fund (the Museum burned last year).  We also used the marina courtesy car to go “to town” to re-provision, washed and tidied up the boat and did laundry. 

Pedro and Dan

We also contacted old and dear friends, Pedro and Syamy who live only about an hour from Deltaville in Gloucester, VA.  They accepted our invitation to visit us on the boat and planned on joining us for lunch on Monday.  Monday was also the day we met Chuck from Deltaville Boatyard who arrived early to assess our problem.  He delivered the bad news advising we’d have to have the boat hauled in order to fix our leak.  Later that morning Pedro and Syamy arrived for a delightful reunion.  Hearing our bad news, Pedro invited us back to Gloucester and gave us his Toyota P/U truck to use for however long we needed it (an exceedingly kind gesture and one that proved invaluable).  

We also ate a late lunch at Bangkok Noi, outstanding Thai food.  Using Pedro’s truck we visited thelocal quant and historic communities of Kilmarnock and Urbanna and the shoppingGloucester for needed visits to Wal-Mart and Home Depot .

Dinner at Bangkok Noi (twice)

Sandy and Syamy

Some R Lovin' in the sling

We were finally hauled out on Wednesday, had the majority of the work completed on Thursday only to learn that Tropical Storm Andrea was headed our way.  In addition to excellent work provided by Deltaville Boatyard, the yard manager, Chuck also invited us to stay “on the hard” to wait out the storm rather than go back into the water in unsafe conditions.  We gladly accepted even though we were tiring of climbing the ladder to the swim platform and on up to the boat.  Confounding our living experience, we had only enough power to run essential systems like the refrigerator and lights and we couldn’t use water onboard as all grey water would have pumped into the yard below (bad form). 

Our home "on the hard"

Making the best of a bad situation, when the weather cleared, we put another coat of paint on the bottom of the boat and waxed her from top to bottom.  Not light work by any stretch but good use of spare time.  We also visited the Maritime Museum and ate in nearly every restaurant available in Deltaville.  

Hurd's has it all -- REALLY

The town boasts a ratio of three boats to every resident so as one would expect, a sizable West Marine was only a short distance away (which we visited daily and didn’t even buy anything on at least two occasions).  Hurds True Value was another frequent stop where their motto is “if we don’t have it, you probably don’t need it. Not your normal True Value whose motto is incredibly accurate.

Owned and operated by friends of Randy and Sue (small world)

Good food, questionable entertainment...

Best grocery store in town (the only grocery store in town)

We met up with Pedro and Syamy a couple more times during our Deltaville stay for dinner and to return the truck.  On Monday Some R Lovin’ went back into the water but we had to wait 24 hours before conducting a sea trial on Tuesday, yet another delay but finally after a successful sea trial, transmission fluid change, shaft alignment and various final checks we were able to get underway early Wednesday enroute to Tangier Island.  We had stayed so long in Deltaville, Sandy had to buy a shirt – it was long enough to be considered a vacation destination J.

Departing Deltaville under the watchful eye of a nesting Osprey
 

Week 4 Oriental, NC to Deltaville, VA May 28 to June 5, 2013

Sunset at Belhaven, NC

A sad day indeed after leaving Heather but we got back into our routine quickly.  We continued along the Nuese River through the Pamlico Sound allowing the autopilot to do most of the steering using waypoints along our route.  The size of the river still amazed us but by midday we rejoined the more typical Intracoastal Waterway north of Pamlico and into the Pungo River.  That night despite howling winds we decided to anchor in an anchorage near Belhaven, NC.  Probably not the brightest decision, as we had to endure SE winds that blew rollers through a long fetch of the Pungo River under our keel well into the night.  After several days of gourmet cooking with Heather, we decided that PB&J sandwiches were about all we could muster.  While our anchor held strong, the evening aboard was not very comfortable and made for a restless night.  By morning the winds had subsided and we were off toward Alligator River Marina to position for crossing the Albemarle Sound.  We were the only boat in the marina until late in the evening so the dock hands and even Miss Wanda, the long-time owner spent time telling us all about the area and issues concerning entry into the Sound and our crossing.

 

A wave before departing Alligator River Marina

We had been anxious about crossing the Albemarle Sound after listening to dozens of hair-raising stories.  Fortunately, morning brought favorable weather with a south wind about 5-10 mph.  The 15-mile open water cruise was completely uneventful.  We had great anticipation for the rest of the day as our route north included the Great Dismal Swamp.  We entered the Pasquotank River into Elizabeth City, NC, where a construction barge had to be moved just to let us pass through the downtown drawbridge.  Quite an effort and we were too concerned negotiating around the barge and bridge to think about grabbing the camera.  Another missed opportunity!

The Pasquotank River was as beautiful as the Waccamaw but even more narrow.  We twisted and turned our way to the first lock that led into the Dismal Swamp Canal.  William Byrd II originally surveyed the area in 1728 that provided its name.  Later George Washington in 1763 founded the Dismal Swamp Co. intended to create a settlement but instead timbered the area from its lush forests.  By 1790 the canal through the Swamp was started and dedicated in 1805.  It played a major role as part of the Underground Railroad and supply line for Confederate troops during the Civil War.  These notes of history are among the many enjoyable things we are learning along our trip north.  Not only can we read about the significant areas of our past but also touch, feel and experience what our ancestors did.  God bless our forefathers (and mothers) who persevered.

The Pasquotank River in the Great Dismal Swamp
(of all the wildlife we could see, a water moccasin was the first)

At the halfway point along the canal we found the Visitor Center (now the Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge) that services both land and waterway travelers. We rafted against the wall with a half dozen other boaters arriving at cocktail time to toast another successful day on the water.  Cheers!!!!

Rafted to the wall of the Visitor Center

A peaceful morning on the canal entering the 5th state of our journey north

Sandy manning the bow line in Dismal Swamp Lock
Note the happy face, this is lock #2

A little diversion… Sandy and I find that we tend to have a few anxious disagreements twice a day, getting off the dock or anchorage and once again docking or anchoring.  Fortunately, both these tense moments only add up to about a half hour a day and we consider ourselves fortunate to continue our loving relationship the other 23 ½ hours.  Heading into the first lock at the Dismal Swamp added a third half hour that day as Sandy nearly decompensated as we prepared to “lock through” for the first time by ourselves.  We didn’t hurt ourselves or break anything so the experience proved useful.  Needless to say, the second lock was a cinch—what a trooper she is.

Lock Master's hut, various "swamp" pics and a sign post at Deep Creek Lock

                                      

Day two of the Swamp concluded with our entry into one of the largest marine industrial areas along the Eastern United States – Norfolk, VA.  The contrast between the Swamp and Naval Warships, Cruise liners and ocean going barges is nearly unimaginable.  We dodged tugs and ships as we made our way to Statute Mile Zero of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway.  Our departure from Vero Beach, FL occurred at SM 948.5.  Adding mileage from the trip where we purchased Some R Lovin’ in Dunedin, FL (near Tampa) we have logged a total of 1,271 miles on the water getting to Norfolk.  Not bad for a couple of novice sailors from Canfield, OH. We enjoyed a walk to town in Norfolk but most of our time was spent in Lens Crafters.  Sandy broke her glasses during our trip through the Dismal Swamp beyond repair.  Can’t have a navigator who can’t read a chart onboard so new glasses were absolutely necessary.  Only took 5 hours, ugh! 

Ships, barges and a peaceful sunset at Waterside Marina, Norfolk,  VA                                                                                    

Our View from Some R Lovin' of
Waterside Marina, Norfolk, VA and Norfolk Naval Shipyard

New specs firmly affixed, we headed out of Norfolk bright and early away from this incredibly large and busy port into the new cruising ground of the Chesapeake Bay.  On our way out of the channel we encountered Warship 55 heading from the ocean back to homeport.  Not the typical cruising boat we have grown accustomed to seeing and certainly not something we wanted to be too close to.  A simple call on the VHF alerted the Captain to our intentions of staying clear.  A starboard to starboard pass crossing over the Norfolk tunnel and we were headed to a series of light houses marking our way north in the Chesapeake.  Only this time our channel markers were VERY far apart again requiring us to depend on waypoints and autopilot to keep us on course.  On the way to Deltaville, Dan discovered a small leak from the shaft seal that would eventually lead to days “on the hard” allowing for repairs.

Warship 71 under repair and Warship 55 entering my channel

Haul out in Deltaville Boatyard, VA

Week three+ Little River, SC to Oriental, NC May 17-28, 2013

Our dock at Provision Co. and view across Southport Basin

After a delightful three days with JoAnne and Kevin we headed toward Southport on the mouth of the Cape Fear River.  It was a short day but the stop was on our list after hearing stories about Southport from Jackie and Chef Jeff, dear Ohio friends and seeing the recent movie filmed there, Safe Haven.  Upon our arrival we found a free slip at the Provision Company Seafood Restaurant dock.  The cost of dockage (without power or water) was a requirement to eat in the restaurant at least once daily.  What a hardship!  The seafood was excellent, the ambiance typical small-town fishing port and the staff friendly and accommodating.  We met fellow Loopers, Tony and Shirley on “Headquarters” during our three-day stay, partially weather driven but mostly because of the atmosphere.  We also met AGLCA Harbor Hosts of the Year, Robert and Kay Creech.  They were a wealth of knowledge of the area waters and helped us plan our next several days while sipping wine on their harbor-view front porch.  Wink, a retired Navy Seal, who we met dockside, loaned us his truck so we could re-provision but he was just one of many who offered us assistance getting around if needed.  Great people!!!

Southport lookout and beach

Robert, Jody, Kay, Shirley and Tony

A hug with Jackie's cousin Beth, longtime resident of Southport 

Safe Haven Poster and location of the movie's store that burned

Shirley and Sandy sharing a blanket at anchor on Some R Lovin'

Wrightsville Beach was our next stop as we prepared to collect our daughter Heather for a four-day trip northward.  We anchored with “Headquarters” one night and took a slip at Bridge Tender Marina the next night in order to rent a car to meet Heather in Oriental, NC.  Meeting people who join us for a cruise takes a lot of planning (pick the time or place but not both is the rule).  On our return from Oriental to Wrightsville Beach by car we found a quaint roadside farm market with delicious fresh local strawberries and vegetables that became themes of our meals aboard for the next several days. 

Full moon over Mile Hammock

Our first stop with Heather was an anchorage at Mile Hammock near Camp Lejeune Marine Corps Base.  A full moon and a quiet cove offered a fun experience on the hook despite winds in excess of 20 mph.  Casper’s Marina in Swansboro was our next stop, another cute fishing community.  Local recommendations helped guide us on a walking tour of the historic part of town where we found Clyde Philips’ fish market and bought more shrimp and a freshly caught Drum filleted for us while we waited.  It turned into a scrumptious meal that night.  After dinner we strolled to The Irish Pub and Icehouse Restaurant for drinks and live folk entertainment along with many of the locals.  What a fun night!!!

Same moon only earlier

Toasting our cook (Sandy) in Historic Swansboro, NC

The cigar was Dad's idea

Heather on a hike into the Reserve

Early off the dock on Sunday (with a somewhat compromised first mate and crew) for another short day trip to Beaufort (bo-fort), NC where we joined hundreds of Memorial Day revelers in this popular seaside community, the third oldest city in North Carolina.  A side trip for Heather and Dan was a dinghy ride across Taylor Creek to the Rachel Carson Reserve where they found a heard of feral Shackleford horses roaming free. What a special treat. Rachel Carson is remembered as the Mother of the Environmental Movement who focused on the abuse of chemicals like DDT.

Shackleford Horses at their watering hole

Wildflowers near Taylor Creek

Sunset at Beaufort Docks

Heather at the helm under the watchful eye of Sandy

Back to Oriental, this time by water, was sadly our last day with Heather.  We traveled along the Nuese River, the widest river in the US for the four hour-trip.  Not a lot to see but the day was bright and sunny and shortly after arriving at the Oriental Marina and Inn we joined the local crowd at the Tiki Hut for a rum punch. Later we grilled a delicious dinner, tended to some laundry, filled the water tanks and settled in for quiet night. At 7:00 AM we kissed Heather goodbye, tossed the lines off and watched sailboat masts from the sailing capital of North Carolina fade into the background.

 

The Tiki Hut in Oriental