Week 4 Oriental, NC to Deltaville, VA May 28 to June 5, 2013

Sunset at Belhaven, NC

A sad day indeed after leaving Heather but we got back into our routine quickly.  We continued along the Nuese River through the Pamlico Sound allowing the autopilot to do most of the steering using waypoints along our route.  The size of the river still amazed us but by midday we rejoined the more typical Intracoastal Waterway north of Pamlico and into the Pungo River.  That night despite howling winds we decided to anchor in an anchorage near Belhaven, NC.  Probably not the brightest decision, as we had to endure SE winds that blew rollers through a long fetch of the Pungo River under our keel well into the night.  After several days of gourmet cooking with Heather, we decided that PB&J sandwiches were about all we could muster.  While our anchor held strong, the evening aboard was not very comfortable and made for a restless night.  By morning the winds had subsided and we were off toward Alligator River Marina to position for crossing the Albemarle Sound.  We were the only boat in the marina until late in the evening so the dock hands and even Miss Wanda, the long-time owner spent time telling us all about the area and issues concerning entry into the Sound and our crossing.

 

A wave before departing Alligator River Marina

We had been anxious about crossing the Albemarle Sound after listening to dozens of hair-raising stories.  Fortunately, morning brought favorable weather with a south wind about 5-10 mph.  The 15-mile open water cruise was completely uneventful.  We had great anticipation for the rest of the day as our route north included the Great Dismal Swamp.  We entered the Pasquotank River into Elizabeth City, NC, where a construction barge had to be moved just to let us pass through the downtown drawbridge.  Quite an effort and we were too concerned negotiating around the barge and bridge to think about grabbing the camera.  Another missed opportunity!

The Pasquotank River was as beautiful as the Waccamaw but even more narrow.  We twisted and turned our way to the first lock that led into the Dismal Swamp Canal.  William Byrd II originally surveyed the area in 1728 that provided its name.  Later George Washington in 1763 founded the Dismal Swamp Co. intended to create a settlement but instead timbered the area from its lush forests.  By 1790 the canal through the Swamp was started and dedicated in 1805.  It played a major role as part of the Underground Railroad and supply line for Confederate troops during the Civil War.  These notes of history are among the many enjoyable things we are learning along our trip north.  Not only can we read about the significant areas of our past but also touch, feel and experience what our ancestors did.  God bless our forefathers (and mothers) who persevered.

The Pasquotank River in the Great Dismal Swamp
(of all the wildlife we could see, a water moccasin was the first)

At the halfway point along the canal we found the Visitor Center (now the Dismal Swamp National Wildlife Refuge) that services both land and waterway travelers. We rafted against the wall with a half dozen other boaters arriving at cocktail time to toast another successful day on the water.  Cheers!!!!

Rafted to the wall of the Visitor Center

A peaceful morning on the canal entering the 5th state of our journey north

Sandy manning the bow line in Dismal Swamp Lock
Note the happy face, this is lock #2

A little diversion… Sandy and I find that we tend to have a few anxious disagreements twice a day, getting off the dock or anchorage and once again docking or anchoring.  Fortunately, both these tense moments only add up to about a half hour a day and we consider ourselves fortunate to continue our loving relationship the other 23 ½ hours.  Heading into the first lock at the Dismal Swamp added a third half hour that day as Sandy nearly decompensated as we prepared to “lock through” for the first time by ourselves.  We didn’t hurt ourselves or break anything so the experience proved useful.  Needless to say, the second lock was a cinch—what a trooper she is.

Lock Master's hut, various "swamp" pics and a sign post at Deep Creek Lock

                                      

Day two of the Swamp concluded with our entry into one of the largest marine industrial areas along the Eastern United States – Norfolk, VA.  The contrast between the Swamp and Naval Warships, Cruise liners and ocean going barges is nearly unimaginable.  We dodged tugs and ships as we made our way to Statute Mile Zero of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway.  Our departure from Vero Beach, FL occurred at SM 948.5.  Adding mileage from the trip where we purchased Some R Lovin’ in Dunedin, FL (near Tampa) we have logged a total of 1,271 miles on the water getting to Norfolk.  Not bad for a couple of novice sailors from Canfield, OH. We enjoyed a walk to town in Norfolk but most of our time was spent in Lens Crafters.  Sandy broke her glasses during our trip through the Dismal Swamp beyond repair.  Can’t have a navigator who can’t read a chart onboard so new glasses were absolutely necessary.  Only took 5 hours, ugh! 

Ships, barges and a peaceful sunset at Waterside Marina, Norfolk,  VA                                                                                    

Our View from Some R Lovin' of
Waterside Marina, Norfolk, VA and Norfolk Naval Shipyard

New specs firmly affixed, we headed out of Norfolk bright and early away from this incredibly large and busy port into the new cruising ground of the Chesapeake Bay.  On our way out of the channel we encountered Warship 55 heading from the ocean back to homeport.  Not the typical cruising boat we have grown accustomed to seeing and certainly not something we wanted to be too close to.  A simple call on the VHF alerted the Captain to our intentions of staying clear.  A starboard to starboard pass crossing over the Norfolk tunnel and we were headed to a series of light houses marking our way north in the Chesapeake.  Only this time our channel markers were VERY far apart again requiring us to depend on waypoints and autopilot to keep us on course.  On the way to Deltaville, Dan discovered a small leak from the shaft seal that would eventually lead to days “on the hard” allowing for repairs.

Warship 71 under repair and Warship 55 entering my channel

Haul out in Deltaville Boatyard, VA

Week three+ Little River, SC to Oriental, NC May 17-28, 2013

Our dock at Provision Co. and view across Southport Basin

After a delightful three days with JoAnne and Kevin we headed toward Southport on the mouth of the Cape Fear River.  It was a short day but the stop was on our list after hearing stories about Southport from Jackie and Chef Jeff, dear Ohio friends and seeing the recent movie filmed there, Safe Haven.  Upon our arrival we found a free slip at the Provision Company Seafood Restaurant dock.  The cost of dockage (without power or water) was a requirement to eat in the restaurant at least once daily.  What a hardship!  The seafood was excellent, the ambiance typical small-town fishing port and the staff friendly and accommodating.  We met fellow Loopers, Tony and Shirley on “Headquarters” during our three-day stay, partially weather driven but mostly because of the atmosphere.  We also met AGLCA Harbor Hosts of the Year, Robert and Kay Creech.  They were a wealth of knowledge of the area waters and helped us plan our next several days while sipping wine on their harbor-view front porch.  Wink, a retired Navy Seal, who we met dockside, loaned us his truck so we could re-provision but he was just one of many who offered us assistance getting around if needed.  Great people!!!

Southport lookout and beach

Robert, Jody, Kay, Shirley and Tony

A hug with Jackie's cousin Beth, longtime resident of Southport 

Safe Haven Poster and location of the movie's store that burned

Shirley and Sandy sharing a blanket at anchor on Some R Lovin'

Wrightsville Beach was our next stop as we prepared to collect our daughter Heather for a four-day trip northward.  We anchored with “Headquarters” one night and took a slip at Bridge Tender Marina the next night in order to rent a car to meet Heather in Oriental, NC.  Meeting people who join us for a cruise takes a lot of planning (pick the time or place but not both is the rule).  On our return from Oriental to Wrightsville Beach by car we found a quaint roadside farm market with delicious fresh local strawberries and vegetables that became themes of our meals aboard for the next several days. 

Full moon over Mile Hammock

Our first stop with Heather was an anchorage at Mile Hammock near Camp Lejeune Marine Corps Base.  A full moon and a quiet cove offered a fun experience on the hook despite winds in excess of 20 mph.  Casper’s Marina in Swansboro was our next stop, another cute fishing community.  Local recommendations helped guide us on a walking tour of the historic part of town where we found Clyde Philips’ fish market and bought more shrimp and a freshly caught Drum filleted for us while we waited.  It turned into a scrumptious meal that night.  After dinner we strolled to The Irish Pub and Icehouse Restaurant for drinks and live folk entertainment along with many of the locals.  What a fun night!!!

Same moon only earlier

Toasting our cook (Sandy) in Historic Swansboro, NC

The cigar was Dad's idea

Heather on a hike into the Reserve

Early off the dock on Sunday (with a somewhat compromised first mate and crew) for another short day trip to Beaufort (bo-fort), NC where we joined hundreds of Memorial Day revelers in this popular seaside community, the third oldest city in North Carolina.  A side trip for Heather and Dan was a dinghy ride across Taylor Creek to the Rachel Carson Reserve where they found a heard of feral Shackleford horses roaming free. What a special treat. Rachel Carson is remembered as the Mother of the Environmental Movement who focused on the abuse of chemicals like DDT.

Shackleford Horses at their watering hole

Wildflowers near Taylor Creek

Sunset at Beaufort Docks

Heather at the helm under the watchful eye of Sandy

Back to Oriental, this time by water, was sadly our last day with Heather.  We traveled along the Nuese River, the widest river in the US for the four hour-trip.  Not a lot to see but the day was bright and sunny and shortly after arriving at the Oriental Marina and Inn we joined the local crowd at the Tiki Hut for a rum punch. Later we grilled a delicious dinner, tended to some laundry, filled the water tanks and settled in for quiet night. At 7:00 AM we kissed Heather goodbye, tossed the lines off and watched sailboat masts from the sailing capital of North Carolina fade into the background.

 

The Tiki Hut in Oriental

Week two Jekyll Island, GA to Little River, SC

Week 2 Jekyll Island to Little River  (May 11 to 16, 2013)

Despite all the cautions and local knowledge about traveling along Jekyll Creek, we experienced our first grounding not 15 minutes after our departure from Jekyll Island Marina.  We had just radioed a sailboat following us to remark about sufficient water near a notorious marker when we touched softly on the bottom.  We were on a rising tide and backing off occurred easily allowing us to proceed out the Creek into St Simons Sound, our first of many Sounds in Georgia.  We were both a little surprised at the expanse of water in these Sounds.

Surprise, shrimp at The Jekyll Wharf Rah Bar

Our second (third and fourth) grounding occurred at the entrance to Walburg Creek just south of St Catherine’s Sound.  We arrived at low tide, and were greeted by a well-charted shoal and an unfavorable wind.  As we tried to find the deepest water into the creek, we touched a few times but eventually plowed into much deeper water.  Our nautical expertise did not go unnoticed as a local fisherman looked on as he fished near our entrance.  About two miles up Walburg Creek we successfully anchored for the night among four boats that had been traveling with us most of the day.  The sailboat I had talked to early that morning “Tank” also arrived and anchored near us.  We invited Jim to Some R Lovin for a beer and to talk about life on the water.  He has been living on his Morgan ’41 for years and shared many experiences helping us prepare for our transit through Georgia.  He left before the Georgia flies carried him away and sent us down below.  During this anchoring, Anchor Alert HD, an app on our iPad, allowed us to sleep better at night on the hook.

HUGE Georgia fly

Day three we crossed St Catherine’s Sound approaching the Atlantic Ocean and experienced a bumpy ride for the first three hours of our journey.  It was Heather’s birthday so we traveled with her in spirit as one of our crew.  We have been amazed that water so wide can experience such shallow areas. Minding makers in big water is just as important as it is in much smaller canals and rivers.  After leaving the Sound we continued our trek stopping for the night at Hilton Head Harbor Marina.  As this day was Mother’s Day, Dan tried to do something special for Sandy.  The choices nearby were limited but we found the Harbor restaurant, Sunset Grill was exceptional.  We later learned one of our friends, Alice and Mike, from Vero Beach lived just across the street from the marina.  Unfortunately, they were not at home so we missed catching up with them.  Maybe next time…

Sunset at Sunset Grill

Some R Lovin' at the fuel dock

Our next day became one of the most memorable to date.  We read about B&B Seafood on the Mosquito Creek in the Waterway Guide as a recommended stop just off the ICW.  That day we were limited in distance we could travel because of tides and shallow water so we decided to take the excursion.  Advertised as a flat-rate $25 dockage and fresh shrimp at the office, this stop at Bennett Point was a highlight of low country South Carolina.  We docked behind a 68’ shrimp boat and of the 50 families living there, probably ¼ of the population stopped by to welcome us.  Tank also happened along and joined us aboard Some R Lovin’ for a shrimp boil.  Later that night Billie B, the shrimp boat returned to the dock with the day’s catch.  Sandy talked Captain Rich into selling us more shrimp from his catch that later turned into shrimp scampi with linguini and white wine sauce.  Wish we could get the bumper sticker we saw there,“friends don’t let friends eat foreign shrimp.”  We have become attached to fresh shrimp in the most delicious way.

B&B Seafood at Bennet Point, SC

Tank's Captain, Jim and Dan eating more shrimp

Captain Rich measuring out our shrimp

Our next day was our longest to date, Mosquito Creek to Dewees Creek north of Charleston near Isle of Palms.  To get to this anchorage we traversed additional skinny water, hazardous shoaling areas and through Charleston Bay.  After more than 8 hours on the water we were ready for a peaceful night.  Unfortunately, Dewees anchorage, though advertised as excellent, we had to reset the anchor three times and endured a restless night despite our trusty anchor alarm.  That was the scampi night so at least our tummies were happy.

Sunset in Dewees Creek

After leaving Dewees Creek we headed to Georgetown Harborwalk Marina.  What an unexpected pleasure stop, but not without another day of fighting tides, currents and shoaling water.  We docked around 3:00 PM and caught the last city tram tour of the day.  Lloyd, our personal guide as we were the only ones on the tour, enlightened us about revolutionary and civil war history of the town.  Period homes have been restored to their original state in the historic area of downtown.  Michele Obama’s Great-great Grandfather was freed from slavery here and educated in the African Methodist Episcopal Church where so many other slaves learned to read and write before leaving Georgia to work in the north.  We learned of and bought Carolina Gold Rice, one of the cash crops of Georgetown.  And if you ever get to Georgetown, don’t pass up an opportunity to dine outside at Krazy Fish with its funky, local color and conversation.

Our final day this week we nearly completed our journey through South Carolina stopping at Little River for three delightful days with our friends from high school, JoAnne and Kevin.  Our route there took us through the Waccamaw River, one of the most scenic passages along the South Carolina ICW.  Cyprus trees lined the river and we saw dozens of turtles lazing along the banks.  One must take the good with the bad and the second half of the day we trudged along the narrow and unforgiving rocky banks through the Myrtle Beaches arriving at Cricket Cove Marina in Little River.  Here we re-provisioned and bought things we didn’t know we would need like a fly swatter and new aft stateroom pillows.  Thanks to Jo and Kev for driving us around and hosting us in their home away from home.

The beautiful Waccamaw River

Friends forever at Molly Darcy's Irish Pub, Myrtle Beach, SC

 

Red, White and Blue pillows for our bed

From Vero Beach, FL to Jekyll Island, GA

Week 1 Vero Beach, FL to Jekyll Island, GA (May 4 - May 10, 2013)

Our departure from Loggerhead Marina occurred during the monthly breakfast gathering of fellow boaters and staff.  Consequently, we had plenty of help casting off our lines.  Our smiles, while genuine, didn’t tell all the story of all the feelings we were experiencing.  Excitement and apprehension of what lay ahead, leaving behind so many new friends and the reality of actually starting the journey that we had been planning for so many months.

They just wouldn't let go...

Fond farewell

Cocoa Village Marina was our first stop.  Our plan to make Titusville turned out to be a little ambitious but the stop included a Kentucky Derby party at the marina.  The hosts were very gracious but we were unprepared for the “dress up” occasion so we took a short walk into town and decided to enjoy a meal at the packed Thai Thai Restaurant.  We returned to our boat and began what has become our practice of reviewing the charts, Skipper Bob’s Anchorages and Marinas books and the Waterway Guide for the next day’s cruise noting points of interest and cautions for the passage.

Sunset over Cocoa Village Marina

Our second day was short (only 32 miles enroute) found us in Titusville Municipal Marina where we picked up a mooring ball (our first).  For those new to boating and reading our blog, a mooring ball is similar to anchoring but using a pennant attached to a chain, attached usually to a large block of concrete on the bottom of a protected harbor near a marina.  They are very secure but lack the luxury of dock-side power, water or easy access to marina amenities.  Nonetheless we took our dinghy to shore to use the facilities and enjoyed a night of peaceful security.

From Titusville we went nearly our planned 50 miles and anchored just south of Memorial Bridge in Daytona Beach (our first overnight anchor).  We chose not to dinghy to shore but rather just sat around the boat enjoying the solitude of a quiet anchorage.  This also provided us the opportunity of improving our power conservation without running our generator all the time.  We grilled dinner and settled in for a night “on the hook.”  That night was a little restless as Some R lovin’ swung with the tide and wind, but we held firmly throughout the night and woke early prepared for another day on the water.

Memorial Bridge Anchorage
Daytona Beach, FL

Our next destination was St Augustine, one of the oldest cities in Florida.  We had visited there before but it’s a really cool town and a must-stop place on most boaters’ itineraries.  We decided to pick up another mooring ball and dinghy to town for dinner and revisit a couple of the local sites we enjoyed on our previous trip.  We found a delightful Cuban restaurant but best of all the bartender shared his recipes for white and red sangria, delicious!  To this point in our trip the waterway was pretty unremarkable from a challenging navigation perspective. 

Oldest Catholic Parish in North America

Sangria time

St Augustine to port as we depart